Workshop #8 - Deep Etching

For this workshop we learnt an effective way to deep etch a subject on the cyclorama. This is useful for our digital imaging major assignment, in which we have to take a photograph of someone in the studio and place them in a landscape.

Firstly you need to light the subject appropriately, and then you need to lighten the background to make it white.  In order to illuminate the background without light falling or reflecting onto the subject, two barriers need to be set up to block the background lights. (I used Ginettes sketch as I found it very useful. Thanks G!)

Workshop #7 - Copy Work

The important thing about copy work is that the colours MUST be accurate. This is essential as it is very important to portray the artwork with accuracy. Copy work is rather boring, and is just used to create a record of another artwork, there is no room for your own personal 'composition' etc.

Lighting is very important as it has to be even throughout the frame. For this we set up two lights both at 45 degree angles and used a spotmeter to make sure the lighting was even. The colour control patches are used to make sure the colours are accurate.



For this shot we used the Sinar digital back on the large format camera using multi shot.

Workshop #6 - Tilt Shift

I was away for the tilt shift workshop as I was getting my tonsils out. But I will talk about my folio tilt shift shot instead. These shots were taken on the haselblads with the adapter.

Before

After

As you can see it made an amazing difference to the depth of field! I was actually very surprised at how well it worked. We did the workshops with the view cameras in location, but I feel I benefited much more from the studio practice as I could see the results immediately and could compare.

So by tilting the lens, instead of the focus getting softer towards the back of the frame, it puts the corners out of focus depending on which way you tilt it. So I had to be very careful not to over correct.

Workshop #6 - Macro

I actually had quite a bit of fun with this workshop, and I almost enjoyed figuring out the mathematical equations we needed!
Unfortunately Burkey lost the files for the shots that we took, but I was very pleased with our stamp, and how sharp it was. It was amazing the kind of detail you can get in an object when you take it at 1 to 1 magnification.


Here is the info we got from both our shots.  


Shot 1 : Watch Shot 2 : Stamp

Magnification Factor 0.5x or 1:2 1x or 1:1

Camera Hasselblad H3d2 5d M11

Sensor Size mm 33.1 x 44.2 36 x 24

Lens focal length  80mm 90mm Macro

ISO 100 100

Extension Tubes Yes No

Focal Distance  120 180

Bellows Extension  2.25 4

Stops Increased 1 2

Light reading N/A 2.8f 1/8 sec

Adjusted Exposure N/A 2.8f 1 sec

Workshop #5 - Chrome

I decided to choose a coffee grinder for my chrome workshop as it was basically the only chrome object I could find in my kitchen.
It proved rather challenging as it is quite curved, and I took a long time trying to get the curved line nice and sharp by using card to define the shapes.

So it isn't a great shot, but the lighting does make it look very 3 dimensional, which is an important part of chrome photography.

Workshop #4 - Glass

Here are the shots we took for our light and dark field glass. The light field worked much better I thought, and the lighting is much easier to control as you can just move the black paper on either side of the object.

The basic idea is for light field illumination to place the object with a light behind it (preferably on a light table) and use black cardboard on either side out of the frame to create edges in the object.

With dark field illumination you have a light behind the object, but directly behind is black cardboard, so the light just shines on the edges.